What goes in, comes out, of course, and Fearnley-Whittingstall’s appealingly idiosyncratic book also trumpets the views of Giulia Enders, a German microbiologist who argues in favour of a shift in toilet habits. “I’m a total convert. I found Giulia’s explanation of the benefits of squatting compelling. It’s worked for me and it still does – three years on. I don’t think I will ever go back,” Fearnley-Whittingstall writes. Thankfully, that advice comes in a section that is not illustrated.