There is only so much of this you can read before anger starts to feel like prejudice. Warner’s recent consultancy work, as he acknowledges, has been to develop meat-free, vegan and reduced-meat food products for the food industry. And he is very much in favour of ready meals. The fashion for cooking from fresh, he alleges, results in huge amounts of food waste... All this is serious, genuine, righteous anger — and that, for the reader, is a problem. What made the last two books so enjoyable was their virtue-pricking and charlatan-busting. It was fun to hang out in the kitchen with the outrageous chef. The wrathful one is a bit depressing.