Nina-Sophia Miralles is harshly critical of the edition guest-edited by Meghan Markle, but she adds that Enninful and Markle share the same ‘woke’ tone which has become a staple of the new Vogue.
What seems certain never to change is the tempers, tantrums and tears that have always been part of the magazine’s history. Even Wintour was not immune to the hostile atmosphere: in her early days at Vogue, contemporaries recall her crying on the phone to her future husband, a child psychiatrist who ‘behaved more like her personal life coach than a lover’.
When she first joined, the then editor Grace Mirabella asked her what job she wanted. ‘Yours,’ replied Wintour.
Ambition brings great rewards, but it can come at a cost, too, as this enthralling history reveals.
Readers are taken on a journey through three centuries and two World Wars, describing the magazine’s publishers and editors from the fearsome Edna Woolman Chase to her modern incarnation in Anna Wintour. The interplay between creativity and commerce and the way different editors forged their own agendas is skilfully outlined. More importantly, Glossy shows how Vogue survived many rocky periods, how a luxury magazine represented the changing role of women through the decades, how editors responded to the world around them, and the magazine’s relevance or otherwise in today’s turbulent times.
When Condé Nast publications was bought for $5 million in 1959 by Samuel Newhouse and run by his son Si, it ushered in an era of brutal in-fighting among senior staff and sudden, unceremonious sackings. The editor of French Vogue, who got the chop for wanting to put a black model on the cover, only discovered she had been fired when she went to the accounts department to pick up her pay cheque and was told it was the final one. Nina Sophia Miralles’s admirably researched book takes us through the growing expansion of the Condé Nast empire, with Vogue launches in almost every country you can think of.