When another seven centuries had passed Bouvier and his wife Eliane climbed Halla-san in an endearingly amateurish way. A masochistic defiance of commonsense marked many Bouvier enterprises though his personal irresponsibility never endangered anyone else. On Halla-San, “The forest and its thorny undergrowth, where orchids hang like Chinese lanterns, are so dense that you need a machete to advance one step. I didn’t even have a knife”. Near the summit the exhausted couple came upon a ninth-century red stone Buddha, seven metres high, enfolded by ancient trees. Here Bouvier is at his most effective. Travellers following their own paths occasionally wander into nameless, hidden, silent spaces emanating “a clear trace of holiness”. Few of us have the words to adequately describe that good fortune.