As global demand for food soars, what we eat is going to radically change...I read this book on holiday in the Outer Hebrides, where the wild scallops on my plate were landed an hour or two earlier. The concept of hungry mega-metropolises seemed distant, but Little’s message is that organic riches and individual effort can never meet future needs. In the book she drops her antagonism to genetically modified food, accepting that tech is essential. As consumers, we are all going to have to get over what she calls the “ick factor” and understand that insect and algae protein, microwave vacuum drying (it preserves food in a state of shrunken chewiness), genetic modification and vegan meal replacements will play a part in diet... There’s a timely, positive, thought-provoking message here. It’s just a shame the book is hopelessly overwritten: 100 pages shorter, it would have had real punch. Little is bewilderingly prolix in her scene setting. Aarskog, for instance, has “thick, scowling eyebrows” and approaches the mission of lice eradication “with all the enthusiasm of Caddyshack’s Carl Spackler in his battle against the gophers”; and someone else is “Danny Ocean crossed with the affable Schneider from One Day at a Time”. It’s bad enough, to be honest, to drive me to vegan baby food.